How to Stop Your Dog from Chewing the Remote: 6 Fixes
There is a special kind of frustration reserved for grabbing the TV remote and finding it damp, dented, and decorated with tooth marks. If you’re searching for how to stop dog from chewing the remote, you are far from alone — remotes are one of the most commonly chewed household objects in America. They are the perfect size for a dog’s mouth, they carry your scent, and their buttons make an irresistibly interesting texture.
The good news: remote chewing is one of the easiest bad habits to fix, because it is almost always about opportunity. Take away the opportunity, give your dog something better to chew, and the habit fades fast. Here are the 6 fixes that actually work.
Table of Contents
- 1. Keep the Remote Out of Reach
- 2. Use a Bitter Deterrent Spray
- 3. Teach a Rock-Solid “Leave It”
- 4. Exercise Before You Sit Down
- 5. Redirect to Legal Chew Toys
- 6. Crate When You Can’t Supervise
- What to Do If Your Dog Chewed a Remote
- Frequently Asked Questions
1. Keep the Remote Out of Reach
This is the single most effective fix, and it takes about thirty seconds. Most dogs chew the remote simply because it is there — sitting on the couch cushion, the coffee table, or the armrest at exactly nose height. Remove the opportunity and you remove most of the problem overnight.
Make it a household rule: remotes live in a drawer, on a high shelf, or in a sofa armrest caddy when not in use. A caddy that hangs on the armrest keeps remotes handy for you but off the couch where a curious dog can reach them. Consistency matters more than the container — every family member has to follow the rule, every time.
Tip: Do a “dog-level scan” of your living room. Get down on your knees and look at the room from your dog’s eye level. Anything that smells like you and fits in a mouth is a target. Remotes, phones, and chargers should all live above that line.
Helpful pick: SYSOV Sofa Armrest Organizer — drapes over the armrest with pockets for remotes and phones, keeping them off the couch and away from curious mouths.
2. Use a Bitter Deterrent Spray
Bitter apple spray is a classic trainer tool for a reason: most dogs hate the taste so much that one or two licks teach them the remote is not food. Lightly spray (or wipe) the remote’s edges and buttons — avoid spraying directly into the button seams or the battery compartment, and test on a corner first to make sure it doesn’t affect the finish.
A word of realism: deterrent sprays work best as a backup to management and training, not as the whole plan. A determined or very anxious dog may chew right through the taste, and the spray wears off and needs reapplying. Use it while you are training “leave it” and moving remotes out of reach — never as your only strategy.
Tip: Reapply every couple of days for the first two weeks, especially if your dog is a persistent chewer. Some dogs need a fresh application to keep respecting the boundary.
Helpful pick: Grannick’s Bitter Apple Spray — the original bitter-taste deterrent trainers recommend for furniture, remotes, and other off-limits items.
3. Teach a Rock-Solid “Leave It”
“Leave it” is the Swiss Army knife of dog commands, and remote chewing is the perfect place to use it. Training works like this:
- Hold a treat in your closed fist. Let your dog sniff and paw at it. The moment they back off, mark it (“yes!”) and reward from your other hand.
- Repeat until your dog reliably ignores the closed fist. Then practice with the treat on the floor under your hand, covering it if they lunge.
- Once they can leave a treat on the floor, graduate to a boring object — a pen, a book — and finally practice near the remote itself, rewarding them for looking at it and choosing to turn away.
Keep sessions short (3–5 minutes) and always end on a win. Most dogs get the basics in a week of daily practice. The goal is a dog who hears “leave it” and disengages from the remote on the first ask.
Tip: Never chase your dog to pry the remote from their mouth — that turns it into a thrilling game of keep-away. Instead, say “leave it,” trade for a high-value treat, and praise the drop.
Helpful pick: Zuke’s Mini Naturals Training Treats — soft, pea-sized treats that are perfect for rapid-fire rewards during “leave it” sessions.
4. Exercise Before You Sit Down
Think about when the remote gets chewed. It’s almost always in the evening, when you finally sit down to relax — and when your under-exercised dog is at peak restlessness. A tired dog is dramatically less likely to invent their own entertainment from your electronics.
Build a simple routine: a real walk, a fetch session, or ten minutes of training games before your evening couch time. Mental exercise counts too — a short nose-work game or puzzle feeder burns as much energy as a walk for many dogs. When you settle in with the remote, your dog should be settling in for a nap, not looking for trouble.
Tip: Match the exercise to your dog. A young retriever may need a full fetch session; a senior Cavalier may just need a sniffy walk around the block. Watch for that calm, loose-bodied “I’m done” energy.
Helpful pick: Chuckit! Ball Launcher — throws farther with less effort, so you can tire out a fetch-obsessed dog in minutes before movie night.
5. Redirect to Legal Chew Toys
You will never stop a dog from chewing — you can only redirect what they chew. Chewing is a natural, healthy behavior that relieves stress, fights boredom, and (for puppies) soothes teething gums. The trick is making sure the legal options are always more appealing than the remote.
Keep a rotation of 3–4 chew toys available and swap them every few days so they stay novel. Long-lasting chews like nylon wishbones, rubber toys stuffed with frozen peanut butter, and bully sticks all give your dog the satisfying mouth-feel they are seeking. When you catch your dog eyeing the remote, calmly redirect: “leave it,” then offer the chew toy, and praise them the moment they take it.
Tip: Don’t hand your dog old, broken remotes or shoes as “toys.” Dogs don’t understand the difference between the old one and the good one — you’ll just be teaching them that remotes are chewable.
Helpful pick: Benebone Wishbone Chew Toy — a tough, dog-approved nylon chew with a shape that’s easy to hold, made for power chewers who need a legal outlet.
6. Crate When You Can’t Supervise
Most remote destruction happens when nobody is watching. If your dog chews the remote while you’re at work or asleep, no amount of training will help in the moment — because you’re not there to train. A crate (or a dog-proofed room) removes the opportunity entirely.
Crate training done right feels like a den, not a punishment. Introduce the crate gradually with meals and treats inside, keep absences short at first, and always leave a safe chew toy in there with them. Most adult dogs happily rest for a few hours once the crate feels like their own space.
Tip: If crating feels like too much, a single dog-proofed room works too — just make sure remotes, cords, medications, and trash are all secured before you close the door.
Helpful pick: MidWest iCrate Folding Metal Dog Crate — the classic double-door crate with a divider panel, sturdy enough for daily use and easy to fold away.
What to Do If Your Dog Chewed a Remote
Already too late? Don’t panic — act methodically:
- Check for batteries first. Open the remote and count the batteries. If any are missing, punctured, or leaking, call your vet or an emergency animal hospital immediately. Battery acid burns are time-sensitive.
- Look for plastic shards. Check your dog’s mouth for cuts and pick up every piece of plastic you can find. Sharp bits can cut the mouth, throat, or digestive tract.
- Don’t induce vomiting unless your vet tells you to. Vomiting up sharp plastic can cause more damage coming back up.
- Watch for 24–48 hours. Signs of trouble include drooling, pawing at the mouth, vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy, or straining to poop. Any of these means a vet visit, fast.
- Prevent the sequel. Once the crisis is handled, implement fixes 1–6 above so it doesn’t happen again.
Keep Reading
- How to Stop Your Dog from Chewing Car Seats
- How to Stop Your Dog from Chewing Blankets
- How to Stop Your Dog from Eating Socks
- How to Teach Your Dog to Come When Called
- How to Stop Your Dog from Eating Poop
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my dog chew the remote and nothing else?
Remotes are the perfect storm: the right size for chewing, an interesting button texture, and your scent all over them. Dogs also quickly learn that grabbing the remote gets a big reaction from you — which is rewarding attention, even if it’s the “no!” kind.
Is bitter apple spray safe for dogs?
Yes, when used as directed on inanimate objects. It’s designed to taste awful, not to harm. Don’t spray it directly on your dog or near their food and water, and avoid the battery compartment and button seams of the remote.
My puppy chewed the remote — is that normal?
Completely normal. Puppies explore the world with their mouths and chew to relieve teething discomfort (roughly 3–7 months). The fixes are the same, but be extra consistent with management — puppies learn fastest when the wrong choice simply isn’t available.
What if my dog swallowed a battery?
Treat it as an emergency. Alkaline batteries can leak caustic material that burns the digestive tract, and a swallowed battery can cause an obstruction. Call your vet or an emergency clinic immediately — don’t wait for symptoms.
Will my dog grow out of chewing the remote?
Puppies often chew less as they mature, but “growing out of it” only happens if the habit isn’t being rehearsed. A dog that successfully chews remotes for a year has a well-practiced hobby. Management plus training fixes it at any age.
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